Q&A with Hector Parayuelos from Sony Alpha

Video Q&A Summarized + Transcribed: Hector's answers to your Sony questions!

1. Is it worth upgrading to the A7RIII from the A7III?

There is a significant price difference between the two, however the performance (AF, low light) is pretty similar for the most part. Reasons to upgrade to the A7RIII is as follows: You will h

ave 42MP (A7RIII) vs 24MP (A7III), so you can print larger and crop even more (even half) and still have a high resolution image to share. Additionally, the monitor on the A7RIII is significantly better - it comes with the Sony's white magic tech - an extra white sub pixel - making the LCD screen brighter without using more power. The A7RIII has a higher resolution viewfinder.

Hector's conclusion: Get the A7RIII, it has more resolution and a better viewfinder/LCD.

2. Would you recommend the Sony NX-200 or an A-Series (A6000s, A7s) camera for video?

If you're going to only do video (never stills), you should get a dedicated video camera like the NX-200 or AX53. If you want versatility to shoot both photos/video, change lenses and take advantage of the better \ low light performance (higher quality sensor), you should lean more for the A-series cameras. Realistically though, there is no correct answer as it all depends on works best for you. There are plenty of creatives who have just a camera, just a video camera, but there is also plenty of people who couldn't settle, so they own both.

Hector's conclusion: There's no 'right answer', it all depends on you.

3. How do you save/catalog your images? By Date, Location or Activity?

Previously, Hector used to organize images by date (folder for each year > folder for each month > folder for each day). This method proved to be ineffective as it was too hard to find anything if you couldn't remember around what time of year a certain activity took place. Currently, Hector finds that saving images into a folder with the year, and occasionally with sub-folders by location taken within that year (ex 2020, folder for Oregon, Travel etc) has proven to be less stressful. When exporting to share, the folders with become a little more specific in terms of locations (ex: 2020> Hiroshima Japan, Kyoto Japan, Disneyland Japan).

Hector's conclusion: Organize by year, then have sub-folders by location rather than month.

4. What is the best camera for travel?

Hector's personal favorite travel combo: the A7RIV paired with the 16-35mm GM + 70-300G lens (quite the opposite of packing light). In terms of DSLRs, the list of cameras and lenses could go on forever, however when most people think of "travel", they are generally packing as minimal as possible in terms of camera gear. The best compact camera for travel would be the RX100-series ($750+). They have a large sensor in a compact format - 1" sensor versus a 1/2.3" sensor. The RX100 paired with the shooting grip (which also works as a tripod) is all you need to take high quality images of your travels.

Hector's conclusion: If traveling light, any RX100 compact camera with the shooting grip.

5. Any suggestions for editing software if I don't want to pay for an annual subscription to use it?

Sony actually offers a FREE photo editing software called Imaging Edge Desktop. This is available for both PCs and Macs. It includes a free wireless tethering remote for your Sony gear, a viewer to view your RAW images/ratings for your images/make batch edits, or edit, which does most of what other editing programs do. A link is provided here, but you can also find this via googling "Imaging Edge Desktop".

Hector's Conclusion: Use Sony's FREE photo editing software, Imaging Edge Desktop.

6. Custom buttons VS FN (Function) menu VS MyMenu?

These buttons are all customizable buttons you can use or choose not to utilize. Hector personally has a hierarchy for these customizable buttons: Custom (C1, C2, C3 etc) buttons for most common functions, for switching silent shooting on/off, or JPG/RAW shooting and more. Function (FN) button is used for the 12 most common functions that you use, but not as often as custom buttons, such as AF modes, white balancing etc. MyMenu for options in the menu that you use, but not as frequently as the custom/FN button functions.

Hector's Conclusion: Customize your custom buttons (C1, C2, FN etc) with what you utilize the most.

7. I have the A6000 (two lens kit), and I want a better quality all-in-one so I don't have to change lenses. What do you recommend?

This question is for those out there who are interested in finding an all in one to cut down on how often you have to switch lenses. There are two great options for a crop sensor (A6000 series) shooter: If you are concentrated in still photography, the Sony E 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 is light and compact, however it doesn't have a fixed aperture -- but it does compensate with an excellent reach. If you are doing any video work as well, the 18-105mm f/4 PZ is a great option. Even though it has less of a reach, it has a smooth power zoom option that will help you achieve that coveted slow zoom.

Hector's Conclusion: If you are more stills, the 18-135mm, if you are more video, the 18-105mm PZ.

8. For landscape photography, would you recommend the 16-35mm or the 24-70mm?

This recommendation is not taking into account the sharpness of the lenses, and just focusing on the focal length. Traditionally, the 16-35mm has been THE landscape lens for most photographers, however Hector has found himself 24-70mm more, and even experimenting with the 100-400mm. Unless if Hector absolutely needs the 16mm to really fit the whole scene in his image, he has found the 24-70mm even more versatile. At the end of the day however, the majority of landscape photographers will agree that that 16-35mm is the better lens to tote around because of how wide the field of view is.

Hector's Conclusion: Personally, the 24-70mm, however the 16-35mm is widely accepted as the better option.

9. Is a screen protector really necessary?

For Hector, it is a YES. A screen protector costs less than fixing a crack in your screen. If you are worried about your screen protector altering colors or making your LCD images appear blurry, make sure to get a glass screen protector (The Shutterbug sells them for $24-29.99 and it includes FREE application on the spot) as they won't affect the image quality of your LCD and they still work for touchscreens.

Hector's Conclusion: Yes, but get a glass one, it costs less than fixing the screen later.

10. What lens would you suggest for video on an A6600?

There are two options Hector recommends: The first is the 18-105 f/4 PZ, as we mentioned earlier is perfect for video work due to the smooth zoom transitions. With this option, you are able to achieve sharp slow zooming without trying to micromanage with the focus ring at the same time. If you are working with a gimbal, the 24mm GM, full frame, but it works with crop sensor. Lightweight, sharp, fast focusing. It is one of the top selling video lenses.

Hector's Conclusion: The 18-105mm PZ, but if you have a gimbal, the 24mm GM.

11. What does the mode switch do on the 100-400mm?

If you haven't already checked, there is a mode switch on the bottom of the 100-400mm located near the Optical SteadyShot switch. Mode 1-2 relate to types of stabilization the lens can be optimized for. Mode 1 is specifically to steady for hand holding/when you are not using a tripod. Mode 2 is for 'panning'. Panning in this case can be illustrated as when you are following a track runner. Mode 3 isn't found on the 100-400mm, but is available on the 200-600mm, 400mm, and 600mm GM. Mode 3 is best used to track subjects that aren't moving along a trajectory.

Hector's Conclusion: The Mode switches help with different types of stabilization that you need, Mode 1 for non-tripod related hand-holding, Mode 2 for panning.

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Thank you Hector for participating in our Sony Q&A!

Have any further questions in the future? Don't be afraid to reach out to us or Hector.

Hector is available on Instagram as @hecpara.

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